Sichuan: Land of Abundance

Mar. 30th, 2026 11:47 am
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After Guizhou, the next leg of the China journey has involved a return to Sichuan for several days. Nicknamed "the land of abundance" it receives this appelation initially on account of fertile agricultural plains surrounded by mountains. This is still very important to the province, but these days it is also due to the bustling commercial activity in the capital, Chengdu, and the industrial heartland of Dujiangyan. Like other Chinese cities these have a marvellous mix of old and new and because of the way such cities are designed (i.e., no suburban sprawl) they also provide numerous opportunities for nature to flourish. Visited examples, in order, of such a combination include the Wuhou Temple, dedicated to Prime Minister Zhuge Liang and Emperor Liu Bei, political leaders of the Kingdom of Shu in the Three Kingdoms Period some 1800 years ago; Zhuge's story is particularly impressive.

China is famous for pandas, and no province more so than Sichuan, which is almost overwhelming in panda promotion. One particular site is "Panda Valley", a research, breeding, and rewilding centre that is home to dozens of giant pandas and scores of red pandas. The location, as expected, is quite scenic, with its lush, cool environment providing a pleasant home for these impressive and gentle beasts. Nearby is Mount Qingcheng, one of the most sacred sites to religious Taoism, specifically Zhang Daoling's "Way of the Celestial masters". The mountain area is astoundingly beautiful, with many Taoist temples and shrines well integrated into the environment. Our tour guide took some delight in her argument that giant pandas are Taoist because of their yin-yang colouration.

Nearby is a particularly grand example of ancient engineering Dujiangyan Irrigation System, built over 2,200 years ago and still in use today, a credit to the lead engineer, Li Bing, who managed to see this built without explosives. As the oldest and only surviving no-dam irrigation system in the world, it involved the building of an artificial island that redirected waters during the flood season and released them during the drier months. Since it was built, the Chengdu plain has been free from flooding, and the "water dragon" has been tamed. Unsurprisingly, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sichuan is also home to numerous ethnic minorities, including the Qiang people who live in the forested mountains in western Sichuan, and have their own autonomous county, their own language, religion, and practise their culture, including colourful embroidery. After an interesting and lengthy bus trip, our group stayed at Shiyi mountain village, which included quite a greeting ceremony with local chanting, drumming, and firecrackers at our arrival, and in the evening, a bonfire and dance. It must also be noted that the village was reconstructed after the devastating Wenchaun earthquake. Finally, there was a visit to the Sanxingdui Museum, with its impressive collection of Bronze Age artefacts dating back over 3,500 years. It seems that Sichuan has been a "land of abundance" for many centuries.
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Can't believe it's Holy Week already except that that was definitely Palm Sunday last night. The weather's been oscillating between "too warm for the start of spring" and "too cold for the start of spring", which is relatively normal, but on Wednesday we had rain, sleet, hail, and snow, which actually stuck on the ground for a bit! And the Wednesday before was 17C. It is, however, definitely spring now and not late winter. Friday was the first day I got tricked by the lengthening days into not realising that it was later evening than I thought, and the clocks hadn't even changed then! We're into BST now, though.

I feel like I've been busy but I couldn't say with what. The big testing thing at work is now into week seven of two, and is certainly not going to be done before Easter (...admittedly part of this is because the team in charge have had to go away and make some decisions about how things are going to function in the new set-up, because apparently it didn't occur to anyone that they needed to agree basic processes before they went into UAT...). Choir has been a contributor, as ever, and I'm off shortly for a double Sunday rehearsal. I have done a little bit of socialising, but not as much as I would like.

However, today's big achievement is that I finally! managed to de-DRM my Kindle books, and am now putting them into my ebook reader at LAST. A triumph.
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I have just spent the past four days in Guizhou, a south-western inland district of China. The physical geography is nothing short of stunning, with most of the area covered in lush woodlands over karst hills and mountains, which, even in spring, are often shrouded with cool mists underneath grey skies. It is among some of the most beautiful landscapes I have seen, and I have been fortunate enough in life to see a great deal. One such area includes the Huangguoshu Scenic Area with its numerous waterfalls; the main one (at 100m wide and 78m high) includes a cave system behind the waterfall. This is also the location where, according to legend, the classic story "Journey to the West" begins, and the site has many monuments to this tale. I thoroughly enjoyed teaching our local guide the opening verse and chorus to the BBC series "Monkey Magic". What little flat land exists in valleys is home to packed population centres and intensive farming. As always, the physical geography has a profound influence on social geography, with Guizhou being home to numerous ethnic minority groups, such as the Buyi, Miao, Dong and Yao, whose language and culture are not just recognised but celebrated and are prevalent in locations such as the Qingyan Ancient Town.

In more recent years, Guizhou has become home to some truly remarkable projects, which I also had the opportunity to visit. This includes the world's longest and highest bridge at Huajiang Canyon, which was completed last year. Over 2km in length and a deck height of 625m, the bridge has a walkway underneath with a magnificent view, including a bungy jump, albeit at the eye-watering price of 3000RMB. Another project of note is FAST, the Five-Hundred-Metre Aperture Spherical Radio Telescope (FAST), the world's largest and most sensitive single-aperture spherical radio telescope and includes a well-designed Astronomical Experience Museum, which includes a theatre, planetarium, and a special exhibit on black holes. It also includes a bungy jump, which at 80RMB was incredibly affordable, but alas was closed because it wasn't holiday season - stymied again! FAST is in a radio-quiet zone, which means no digital cameras, mobile phones, or even gate buzzers. The surrounding Tianyan Scenic Area more than makes up for this minor inconvenience, and one could easily spend at least a week here. Finally, Guizhou is also home to the first National Big Data Pilot Zone, which makes a great deal of sense given some of the scientific projects that are occurring nearby.

Although often overlooked by foreign tourists, in many ways, Guizhou represents a remarkable combination and harmonious balance between ancient and modern China. This is a place which, whilst clearly self-sufficient due to soil and rainfall, was less developed than the populous big trading regions of the east and southern coast. It is certainly a place that could cultivate a slower-paced and peaceful life, and unsurprisingly features heavily in classical Chinese artwork as well as being a home for the contemplative and ecologically-minded. New constructions, such as the projects just mentioned, and the extensive fast train networks with their tunnels and bridges abound, have all been introduced gently and alongside the natural environment. Although my stay was fairly short and I did not nearly visit all the remarkable sites, I feel quite confident in recommending Guizhou as a place that is well worth a visit, and I hope to do so again one day soon.

Luzhou: City of Liquour and Spice

Mar. 21st, 2026 12:54 am
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As part of an ACFS-organised trip, I have arrived in China, where I'll be for close to three weeks. The overnight flight was to Shanghai, then a connecting flight to Guiyang, where, after a visit to a local traditional vinegar factory (which is a lot more interesting than it sounds), a fast train was taken to Luzhou for the China International Alcoholic Drinks Expo in Luzhou. This city is famous for its beverages and even goes by the name "City of Liquour", by which they primarily mean baijiu, a very strong rice, maize, or sorghum brandy. The Expo itself was enormous, spanning multiple pavilions and attracting several thousand people. Most of the stalls were for Chinese companies and drinks, but there was also a good number of French, Italian, and Spanish wines, along with an extensive range of Thai products as the guest country of honour. The conference opening was enormous, and I found the keynote speaker's presentation hilarious, as he gave the impression that a "rational level of tipsy" was truly the sign of a "civilised society with enhanced emotion".

As appropriate to my own flexible approach to such things, I imbibed a few samples slowly over the morning before heading off to two museums in the afternoon: the Luzhou Museum and Luzhou Laojiao National Treasure Cellars, which were also dedicated to baijiu production and trade. One provided a historical approach, noting that historians of technology (e.g., Needham) consider regulated fermentation with yeast to be one of China's great inventions. An interesting aspect illustrated first-hand was how baidju is partially produced in mounds of cellar mud, which enhances flavour (science!). The second museum was more contemporary in style, providing a rather amazing collection of the grand variety of baidju bottles which are often stylised for particular years, horoscope animals, life events, and sports. The highlight of this trip was the DIY production of a baijiu blend, combining relatively recent products of different strengths and three syringes of older brews. Thankfully, they were for adding small amounts to our blend, rather than mainlining the contents.

Mention must be made of the Howard Johnson hotel where we stayed; it was modern, stylish, and with an incredible guest lunch on our arrival and a successive buffet feast three times a day after that. Sichuan province is, of course, famous for its chilli with a variety of colours and strengths, and for the powerful Sichuan pepper, which numbs the lips and tongue. Add these to liberal doses of garlic, ginger, star anise, wuxiang, fruit peels, spiced salt, and you'll quickly find out why the region's capital is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. When combined with baijiu, it is clear that the people of this city, in particular, and of this province, in general, like their flavours to have a kick like the strongest mule. Whilst it was a brief visit to the city, one really got the sense that this indeed deserves the appellation of "city of liquor and spice" and is well worth a more regular visit.

february booklog of excess

Mar. 19th, 2026 09:23 pm
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17. An Academic Affair - Jodi McAlister ) Enormously fun and I'm hoping for sequels!


18. The Shots You Take - Rachel Reid ) Fairly forgettable, but still entertaining enough to keep me reading.


19. The Spy Who Loved Me - Ian Fleming ) I don't think Fleming is for me, but there was some enjoyment available.


Greenwing and Dart - Victoria Goddard ) Fluffy, fun (despite a substantial amount of mortal peril) and a generally satisfying binge.


26. How to Win Friends and Influence People - Dale Carnegie ) Dated but I think still worth reading.


27. Holiday in Death, 28. Festive in Death, and 29. Framed in Death - JD Robb ) I always enjoy these - but particularly liked the opportunity to revisit the early part of the series in contrast to the newer state of things!


30. Derring-Do for Beginners - Victoria Goddard ) I was hoping for more actual, you know, Red Company, but this was so much fun I can't have too many regrets.


31. Jane Austen: A Life - Claire Tomalin ) I think this is probably as enlightening as it could reasonably have been, but I was a little disappointed, somehow, despite learning a fair amount. It's not badly-written at all, but it never really won me over somehow.


32. Chain-Gang All-Stars - Nana Kwame Adjei-Brenyah ) Ultra-violent, really thumpingly Message-y, and strangely compelling; I don't think I'll ever want to re-read it, but I am interested to see where Adjei-Brenyah goes from here.


33. Blood Sport, 35. The Edge, and 37. Risk - Dick Francis ) A trio of delightfully exciting nonsenses; I'm so sorry I didn't discover Francis years ago, but on the other hand at least they are a source of joy for me now.


34. Men Explain Things to Me - Rebecca Solnit ) A short but concentrated dose of feminist rage.


36. Outcrossing - Celia Lake ) On paper this absolutely should be my jam, but it entirely is not.


38. Batman: Wayne Family Adventures vol 2 - CRC Payne and Starbite ) Adorable. This series is just so fun.


39. Just One Damned Thing After Another - Jodi Taylor ) This is a fun concept, but the archaeology / history is worse than in Connie Willis' Oxford Time Travel books and that's saying something. I didn't hate it, but I had to disconnect my brain way too much to enjoy it.


40. Ambiguity Machines - Vandana Singh ) A really excellent collection, even though I couldn't muster quite the delight I wanted from it.


41. Get A Life, Chloe Brown - Talia Hibbert ) I enjoyed this, although I'm not sure if I'll read more Hibbert.
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I was fascinated to read Jo Walton's post on How to read sixteen books at once at all times, because I have recently - and somewhat inadvertently - set up something similar for myself.

In mid-February I got fed up of all the half-read things in my ebook reader, so I went through and tagged a bunch of them - things I wanted to read, things I meant to get around to, etc - in a special collection, and then said "OK now you can only read things from this collection". I started out with 25 books, but added a few more either because a) they were new Dick Francis books that I wanted to read (2 books), or b) they were for a book group meeting that I had suddenly realised was approaching (2 books). Since then I have read only one ebook not in that collection (another book group! but a chapter-by-chapter one, so I don't want to read the whole thing yet), one paper book (oh look for a different book group), and a few chapters of other paper books, and the collection is down to 12.

It's actually been tremendously productive as an approach rambling about my reading habits )

In conclusion, it's been great for my reading but terrible for my booklog, which is sadly behind even though I've been working on it reasonably regularly.
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